Twenty

Tuesday 17th. Did a little exploration before breakfast, and later washed some clothes in a stream. Before breakfast, about 10 o’clock, the Rajah came to call with a large following. Neve and the Rajah sat on the two kilters (leather-covered baskets) at the tent door. The rajah, dressed in yellow, had his hookah, and during the whole visit seemed very ennuie. He was curious about my camera. Gustaveson thought it a good opportunity to preach, and did so with the rajah’s assent.
The Rajah stayed till a present of two melons was brought (one bad one).
Patients arrived, and Neve and Gustaveson were busy the rest of the day. I made my way to the top of the great rock which butts out into the river 1400 feet above our camp, and got a fine view of the wonderful assembly of spire-like peaks across the valley to the north, at the head of the Hushe Nullah along the south side of the Baltoro Glacier. Had some difficulty in finding my way down and back to camp in the dark.

Wednesday 18th. After breakfast went with Neve to call on the Raja at his house under the cliffs at the corner of the nullah. Entered a gateway with a sort of stable yard, where were a number of fox terriers. A 3-storied house, built round a central courtyard. We went up some dinghy stairs and along dark passages to a room with 2 open sides, the casements of carved and pierced woodwork. A lovely view over Kapalu with its descending sweep of orchards, the Shyok winding its way through the sandy plain, and the wonderful spires of the Hushe Nullah.
The Rajah, Neve and I sat on the floor, on a carpet - a dozen men, with Sukah Ali with my camera - sitting round the room. A little boy in shabby European dress came in. We were regaled with sweet spiced tea and a flat sort of shortbread cakes. Neve gave the Rajah a New Testament in Persian, with which he seemed pleased. We got very stiff, sitting cross legged. Afterwards, I went up the nullah behind which leads to the pass to the Indus Valley. Took photos
After tiffin, Neve having finished his work, we went to the polo ground and watched the play.

Thursday 18th Sept. Turned out at 5.45 and started at 7, First straight up the stream behind our camp which, as not infrequently, also served as a road.
Reached the east side of the Kapalu moraine and ascended a small nullah about 1200 feet, coming out on a plateau stretching about 2 miles from the mountains on the right, and a mile to the left where it ends in a cliff down to the Shyok. A mile ahead, a great moraine bank came out of a nullah on the right, sweeping right round to our left. Snow was lying low on the mountains, and cloud obscured all the high peaks. The whole plateau was cultivated, the crops being ripe - a sight pleasant to behold..
Having crossed the great bank, we came into a sort of lake bed, half of which was small fields and the rest grassy meadow on which yaks were feeding.
We could here look down 200 feet onto the Shyok Plain and across to the lower slopes of the spurs of the great spires. Here and there green patches of villages with their fields and orchards.
Descended 2000 feet down a steep ravine to the Shyok. Came into an arena of willows and poplars, and passed a strong sulphur spring of cold water. Came to a pari (mountain spur butting onto the river) in which were many large holes, or little caves. In one large hole a number of children were sitting, and in another a lot of very small black goats, sheltering from the rain. Crossed a stream, which Gustaveson tried to jump, and fell in.
The Rajah’s Chaprassi - still with us - carried me and Neve over. Reached Sermo at 10.30, and sat by a stream in an orchard for breakfast, notices being given that the doctor would see sick people. The first time a European doctor has ever been through these parts, but the name of Neve was famous.
After breakfast, the population of the village having assembled - and they smelt pretty strong - preaching and dosing and a few operations were proceeded with. Left Sermo about 2 o’clock.
Rocky spurs from the right now butted right into the river, so we had to climb to cross them, going up and down several 100 feet. Between these “paris” were stretches of sand along the side of the river, the valley now about 1 mile wide.
Having passed the village of Lankha - at the mouth of a nullah - we had to cross a pari where the path for a mile or so was a good example of cliff work often met with in the Indus and other valley. Here and there were sort of stairs on scaffolding, and in some places the path was carried along a cliff face on a staging of transverse timber, supported at one end in holes made into the rock, or on projections or on built-up walls from lower ledges, and at the other, the outer end, on longitudinal timber supported by struts of various lengths resting on projections of rock below. The path itself consists of planks or flat stones, and was about 5 feet wide, to allow room for laden animals to get along.
The scenery here was fine. On both sides the precipitous rocks rising to a great height. The river, about 100 yards wide, with very swift current, and sometimes rushing into great waves over shallows. We camped this night at Dan, after an 18-mile march.

Twenty one

Friday, 21st. Short march of 10 miles today, mostly over fine sand along the river. Crossed one pari with some interesting scaffolding work and through 2 villages on the cultivated moraines.
Arriving at Pisin, Neve and I sat in a shady place and ate the contents of our pockets. Some men showed us the way to the camping place, a pretty spot with trees and rocks and a stream trickling over rocks into ferns. It was just at the corner of the narrow entrance to the Chorbat Nullah, up which is the road to the Chorbat Pass. Gustaveson arrived with the coolies at 12.30, when we had breakfast.
Being Friday, the mullah was calling to prayers from the village mosque, and not many came for treatment, though Gustaveson got a little party to preach to. In the evening I went with my camera some way up the Shyok along cliffs. Rain came on, and afterwards at sunset there were fine effects on the distant snow mountains, the peaks gradually appearing the rain cloud.

Saturday 22nd. Turned out at dawn and all got started at 6.20. Up the Chorbat Nullah. saw the sun at starting up the Shyock, but not again until nine o’clock, as our nullah went south, was very narrow, and the rocks on either side steep and high. It widened out further up.
Gustaveson went ahead as usual and Neve came behind with the coolies. We didn’t pick up Gustaveson till 11 o’clock, sitting by a bridge, and by then we were very ready for breakfast, during which a snow storm came on.
Passed several small cornfields, but the grain was not ripe; the highest field was at about 13500ft. The valley was about ½ a mile wide, more or less grassy, craggy mountains on each side with fresh snow on them, grassy or debris slopes at the foot of them.
About 3 o’clock arrived at some stone shelters, roofed, at the spot called Changa Branza. A flat place with ponds about. Snow came on, and I tried to shelter under the wall of one of the huts, but finally joined Gustaveson inside, braving the fleas, and he lighted a fire on the floor. Coolies came in at 3.45. The march about 15 miles, height about 1500ft above the Shyok. A cold, cheerless spot, but we demolished a melon.

Sunday 22nd. About an inch of snow when we turned out, and clouds were threatening more. Away at 6.45, up stony, undulating ground. Some high peaks ahead, one of over 19000 feet
The coolies stopped for their meal, and Neve stayed with them. I went on, Gustaveson being in front. It snowed again, and the snow on the ground got thicker as we ascended.
The valley narrows and the mountains closed round in front. Began a steep ascent. Having reached what I thought might be the top, saw another rise, and surmounting that, still another. Feeling a bit done, stimulated myself with a Kola biscuit. Up another steep slope towards a flattish peak, completely snow covered, which we had seen a long way down. Snow now about 9 inches deep. I reached the knife-edge top at about 11 o’clock (4¼ hours from camp). I had followed the tracks of some coolies. Nowhere to sit on the top, so started down a steep slope on the other side, and didn’t stop till I was below the snow, 1700 feet down. The top of the Chorbat Pass is about 1600ft. An icy blizzard came on the way down, and icicles hung from my moustache. Joined Gustaveson, and going down a bit further, sat down by the stream under a rock where we basked in the sun, which had come out, and dried our socks.
Neve arrived with the coolies about 1 o’clock, when we had breakfast - a cold one as there was no wood for a fire.
Going on, we passed a Ladakhi boy playing a sort of penny whistle, and he came along with the coolies.
At about 1200ft, reached cultivated land, rose bushes etc. Mountain slopes covered with a sort of brownish-red coloured sorrel. At 16 miles from the last camp, 11½ from the pass, arrived at the cultivated terraces on Hanu. The main village was on the other side of the stream. An old man, the lumbadar, came hobbling across from the village to attend to our wants, about the dirtiest pudding nosed hook and eye I have ever seen, with a high, squeaky voice. Neve pronounced him a leper. The people here were Buddhists. A chorten by the stream, like many others I saw afterwards. Wood etc was brought us by several filthy men. We had a little service before turning in, which we were quite ready to do.

Monday, 23rd. Up before dawn as usual. There were no chickens in the place, so no eggs for breakfast. Continued down the valley, which got narrower and at last became a ravine with high precipitous rocks on each side, of a reddish colour due to a lichen which covered the whole face of the cliffs. Passed the lower village of Hanu, where the path passed through a chorten, the inside roof of which was decorated with paper with coloured representations of Buddha printed thereon. Saw two ibex drinking in the stream, which went up the rocks fast when they saw us. Passed a small village where the ravine was a little wider. Fine view, the foreground of green trees and rushing stream of clear water over variously-coloured boulders, the sides of the nullah towering high on either side.
At 7 miles from camp, emerged suddenly into the gorge of the Indus, striking the (lower) Leh and Scardu road. The Indus a rushing river, of a deep greenish colour about 50 yards wide.
At the corner where we struck the Leh/Scardu road was a low wide wall covered with Buddhist prayer stones of various sizes, all the smaller ones inscribed in Tibetan, with the Buddhist prayer “O mani padmi om,” (“O jewel in the lotus”). The larger ones had more inscription. We turn right (west) towards Scardu, and facing us the tremendous gorge down which the Indus passes in tumultuous way, the bare, purplish coloured mountain spurs rising on each side 3 or 4 thousand feet above the river.
Very up-and-down road, sometimes several hundred feet above the river. passed some small villages at the mouths of nullahs, with fruit and poplar trees and small fields of some grain crop (not corn).

At 18 miles from Hanu, we reached the village of Dah. walked for ½ a mile past very small flat-roofed houses built of large rounded stones (from the river), and many having the cliff or a rock as the back wall, many round shaped, and only about 5 feet high - mere hovels. Except for one or two people working in the fields, there wasn’t a soul about.
Came to a grove of trees where on the right of the road was a retaining wall. and above, a small enclosed space, where I found Neve and Gustaveson surrounded by a group of picturesque but exceedingly dirty natives, including the village Llama, in a mulberry-coloured garment with a yellow cap. All the men were wearing bright red marigolds and bright red seed pods in their caps.
We pitched our tent in this very dusty little enclosure, the khansamah’s tent being on another little terrace above. I climbed down a steep ravine and had a bathe in the river, which was here more gently flowing.
When I got back, I found the grove thronged with men and women, all gaily decked out with yellow flowers in their caps, the women with decorated headdresses, and band with drums and pipes. From a little distance, the women appeared to be wearing veils with black spots, but the illusion proved to be due to dirt. It was a semi-religious (pagan) festival held for 4 days every 3 years. The people are supposed to be Buddhist, but this has to do with their old religion. They sing about hunting ibex and about Gilghit, from where they originally came. They stood round in a circle, a certain amount of mild horse play, and they drank a good deal of chung. The men were handsome looking, the women big and strong. They are Brokpas.

Twenty two

Thursday 24 Sept. Continued our way down the right side of the Indus, along debris slopes and over piris, or on sand at the river’s edge. On one piri the path was carried along a cliff face and round a corner on scaffolding, the path of rough planks about 3 feet wide, no parapet and a clear drop of 44 feet to the river. A giddy bit.
At the end of the march, the mountain fell back from the left side of the river about ½ a mile.
The Indus here ran through a very narrow cleft which must have been very deep, as the stream was slow and the surface perfectly calm.

We crossed it here on a wooden cantilever bridge which was only 18 feet long.
On the further side, nestling under the cliffs were the orchards, fields and village of Sunestsi, where we camped.

Wednesday 25th. A bright sunny day. Started from camp at 6.45. The path - now on the left side of the Indus led along and up a slope of debris of large rocks. In about 3 miles from camp we had come up about 1000 feet, and then turned out of the Indus valley, up a side nullah to the left. There was another road on the opposite side of the nullah that was carried along the cliffs and crossing from one rock to another along single poles, apparently.
The rocks on either side of the nullah rose to some 2000 feet above us. The stream was at first in a deep ravine below us, but we gradually descended and crossed it 2 miles up. Stopped at the village of Tisarmo for breakfast. There were trees and irrigated patches all along by the stream.
Unlike the Baltis, these people were not curious about strangers and did not come out to stare at us. In fact we could hardly find a man to get some fire wood.
The coolies from Sunetsi were a different type of people from those at Hanu and Dah - more pukka Buddhist. They wore pigtails, bracelets, strings of red beads suspended from their ears, had flint and steel instruments and knives in their girdles, but were not quite so dirty as the Dah people. They smoked by mud pipes on the ground.
After breakfast, continued up the valley and at last came out onto a plain surrounded by hills of rounded outline, but with rocky summits. Here on the side of a hill was the large village of Lalu. Well built houses, some with an upper storey, corn and fodder put to dry on the roofs. Work going on the threshing floors. Here we camped. had a good wash in the stream. The people here Mahomaden. They came round, and Neve and Gustaveson did their services to soul and body. They were an interested audience.

Thursday 26th Sept. Began moving extra early. 10 degrees of frost in the morning. Neve attended to some patients before starting at 7.15.
Neve, Gustaveson, his boy and the coolies started off up gentle slopes westward for a pass to Kargil. I, with the khansamah and 4 coolies went south for a pass to Latsun. Glad when the sun came over the hills to warm our bones. The country here rather like Dartmoor, and of the same granite formation. I passed what was apparently a polo ground; at least, there were 4 white stones set up in the position of 2 goals. Saw extraordinary hoar frost effects on the ground, the ice being formed into what looked like bands of white silk ribbon an inch or more wide.
A very gradual ascent from Lalu for 3 miles, then up an easy grass spur to the top of the Bud Pass, 13700ft. On the further side a broad valley descended in successive undulations, bounded on the left by brown, velvety looking hills falling in many rounded spurs.
The ridge I was on ran up to a rocky-headed height on my right. Above the nearer hills rose snowy ranges and peaks, some very distant. When the coolies reached the top, I started on down. The valley gradually narrowed, and 4 miles down, at Charit, became more or less of a ravine, which was very windy. Crossed the stream a good many times, the gorge opening out at last into a wider and fertile valley which, a little way down, joined another. On the spur between the 2 valleys, up the steep slopes of it was the village of Tutsar (11400ft). Here I rested under some willow trees by the stream and waited for the men to turn up and for breakfast.
The valley closed again further on, and the path went along slopes of fine, loose debris. The valley very pretty here. A fine rocky mountain face came into view in front on the further side of the larger valley into which mine finally emerged when I came out into the Lah/Srinegar road, and to the village of Lotsun (Buddhist). Coolies didn’t turn up till 4.20, so I was glad |I had stopped for breakfast. camped below the village in a grove of willows by the river, where I had a bathe. Excellent dinner of pea soup and chicken. A bright, moon-lit night, and much warmer than at Lalu.

Twenty three

Friday, 27th. Today walked to Mulbekh and back, 25 miles. Starting east towards Lah, I was now on a pretty good engineered road, some ten feet wide. kept on the right bank of the river. This valley is more or less of a canyon, which the river has worn in sandstone rock, of which yellow and red are the prevailing colours. The top of the rocks curiously worn. Might be castles. Passed Sherfal where there is a small Buddhist monastery cut into the face of the rock. A grubby place inside. Passed walls of prayer stones, which must be passed on the left to be efficacious, also in and about Mulbekh are many chortens. Mulbekh the first real Buddhist village in Ladakh (or Muslim Tibet) in which country I was now in.
The village was situated at the food of a precipitous hill, on top of which was a small monastery, and I went up to it by a steep path.


There was a small courtyard in front of the building. In the building, a chorten, in which were many little burnt clay objects shaped like a choten, in each of which is mixed ashes of some departed person , ie .I was pocketing one when the Lama came out. He made no objection to my pilfering. He took me into the building in which was a sort of chapel with images of departed saints with little alters in front of them, with little brass bowls of water or corn on them. He showed me his library, the books being written on long single sheets. There was a sheet lying on the floor, which I picked up and asked if I might have, to which he smilingly signified his assent.
In a niche in the wall outside the door were two or three prayer wheels of the shape and size of side drums, which he gave a knock round as he passed.
Just beyond the village was a high figure of a deity, carved on a rock. About it a lot of prayer flags on poles. (I came through here 2 years later with Dr A. Neve and Mr G.Millais).
Having seen what there was to be seen, I walked back to Lotsun.

Saturday 28th Sept.Turned out as soon as it was light, but a little delay in starting as only 2 coolies turned up at first.
Set out west for Kargil. The road and valley much the same as yesterday to Mulbekh. Met a good many caravans of ponies carrying loads of merchandise for Leh. Also met an empty dandy and ponies with the baggage of Mrs Hebes and Miss Kaut, Moravian missionaries, going to Leh. Passed an old Ladakhi fort on the top of a high rock, defending this Wakhta Nullah which, beyond the fort, widens out. Villages now on both sides of the river, green fields, yellow poplars and willows, grey stone retaining walls, white, flat-roofed houses, and small square temples with verandahs.
Having crossed the river, I ascended several hundred feet onto a wide, stony plateau lying between the Makhta and Suru river, which it joins at Kargil.
Looking up the Suru Valley, I could see rocky mountains rising 4 or 5 thousand feet high on each side, and way up the valley, the sight of snows.
Descended from the plateau to the Suru which was crossed by a bridge - with a parapet.
In Kargil was a post office and telegraph poles and Kashmiri pundits about - signs of returning to more civilised parts. At the Dák bungalow found Gustaveson and Neve, doctoring. Their quarters were in a dinghy little hole of a place, but sporting two chairs.

I got here about 10 o’clock, ready for breakfast after my 13-mile rather warm march.
An hour later we left Kargil with 4 ponies and 4 coolies.
The women here beautify themselves by sticking little white seeds on their faces.
Marches about 2 miles down the Suru and then turned sharp left up the valley of the Dras River (One would follow down the Suru for the Indus Valley and Scardu).
The Dras river was of a beautifully blue colour where deep, and beautifully clean when flowing over variously coloured stones.
Crossed a pari or two. Passed a village on the other side of the river to which water was brought by a little canal cut for several miles high up on the mountain side.
Arrived at Chunagund and put up in the serai. Entered a small door into a courtyard about 50 yards long and 10 wide. On three sides were a lot of small rooms on a low terrace. The rooms were little, dark, smoke-begrimed rooms with no windows. Neve and Gustaveson occupied a room. I preferred the courtyard which by evening was well occupied by pack animals.
The Chawkidar (inn keeper) made a difficulty about supplying firewood. He said there was no village, and nothing to be had. Neve told him to get chicken and eggs etc and be quick about it. After further contesting, he went off. Gustaveson’d boy followed him up a nearby cliff, on top of which, invisible from below, was a small village, and soon came back with a sheep, chicken, eggs and firewood.
Two men came to Neve who had been operated on for cataracts 3 or 4 years ago at the mission hospital at Srinegar. One had spectacles, and Neve gave the other a pair.
Much disturbed by fleas during the night. Having no Keating, I powdered up some camphor and put it inside my pyjamas. It did not stupefy the fleas, but made them run about much more actively.

Sunday 29th. Turned out at 5.45. Continued up the Dras River. Very confined valley. Bare rocks rising out of the river both sides. View of high mountains ahead. At six miles, came to the junction with the Shingo River, (draining the Deosai Plains). Bore left along the Dras River, over a pari and came down to Karbu. Had breakfast in a grove of trees, a comforting shelter after a hot and thirsty march. A fine range of black, rocky, precipitous hills arose above Karbu, with a higher range of snow-capped mountains behind them. Five miles on, reached Tashgam, where is a small village, and again we lodged in the serai - a large rambling place with a courtyard. Not so dirty as the last, but well crowded up with natives and animals, and much smoke from fires. We slept in a verandah which rounded the courtyard. Neve and G. went to the village and brought back 3 patients. I had a bathe in the river, mended my chapplis - a frequent occupation. Fine moonlit night. Some fine peaks lying back up a side nullah.

Monday 30th. Just enough sun to be pleasant. At the base of a snow-sprinkled range, the valley turned right. Here the village of Dundal with willow trees, where we stayed 2 hours. Today pleasanter sitting in the sun than in the shade. Started ½ an hour after the others. Further on, the valley widened out, leaving a plain well-watered by streams coming from nullahs on the north side, the river along throughout a gorge on the left (south) side. Here I caught up N & G and we had breakfast. Three miles on, crossed a saddle and looked down on the open plain of Dras, pleasantly green, and a refreshing sight after the arid mountains we had been passing through the last 4 days. There were a few hamlets dotted about, and ahead we could see the rest house, post office, and old white Sikh fort with tapering round towers. On the north were easy sloping ridged; on the south, precipitous rocky mountains, snowy peaks appearing beyond the head of the plain, 10 or 12 miles away. Passed 2 upright stones about 7 feet high, having old Buddhist carvings and inscriptions.
We took up our quarters in a large room with 3 windows in the rest house, a large serai near by. Here we found letters awaiting us. N& G went off to preach in a village. I had a bathe and wrote to Fanny. We dined off a table, which we made by placing a door across our beds. Got new milk and butter, but no vegetables. Had to block the doorways to keep out py dogs.