Six

He presented a rather odd appearance. A gentleman without a shade of colour or even sunburn on his face, with long red beard and moustache, blue serge trousers, black tail coat, and no collar, and an odd-shaped brown topi on his head.
The bungalow is rather an ancient structure, with 4 large rooms side by side, no glass in the windows, and thick with dust.
We first entered a wide passage containing a large mud oven. On the left was a large room which Gustaveson uses as a kitchen, beyond another in which he lives.
We took possession of the two others on the other side of the passage.
We had no sooner arrived than the Thanadar called, bringing a plate of melons, one of apples and two of blackcurrants.
Directly after, the Rajah’s brother came with 6 large dishes of very light-coloured apricots - which are about the most refreshing fruit I have ever tasted - a dish of plums, one of melons and two of large white grapes. With all this fruit, and what we had brought from Scardu, we were well set up.
There being only one chair, it was placed at the disposal of the Rajah’s brother, while we 3 sahibs and the Thanadar, who seems a very decent sort, sat in a row on the bed, and a crowd of 10 or 12 attendants stood around.
Fortunately the visit didn’t last long, as Neve and I were in much need of our breakfast and had headaches from our 4 hours’ ride in the hot sun.
After breakfast and a rest, at 2.30 we went out to call on the Rajah, being conducted by our friend the wazir.
The house is a very picturesque place, of 2 stories, and with a good deal of carving on the beams and window frames under a large chenar (plane tree) in the garden.
By the side of an artificial water course 2 camp chairs were placed, with pieces of white calico on their backs. In front of them a little table with a white cloth, and carpets laid down in front.
On these chairs we sat, while the Rajah and his brother sat on a charpoy (bedstead) at one side, and some 50 attendants sat around in a square.
Two servants held umbrellas over our heads, and as usual, plates of fruit were presented, and then a plate of sweets, tea and cakes were served, which we solemnly partook off, and then departed.
At 4.30 a polo match was arranged for our amusement, and while we were at tiffin, the Rajah and people marched down to the ground, headed by the band.
An English officer appeared, Burnett by name, (“Birney of the Hussars” according to Neve) who was camped near by, and he and Neve and I were accommodated with chairs in the “grand stand”, while everyone else at on the floor.
Some hundreds of natives came to watch the game, and lined the low walls along the asides and ends of the ground.
Most of the boys wear a little bouquet of flowers in their hair, and some of the players had flowers in their turbans.
As at Scardu, we were entertained first by two three grotesque dances, and then 2 games were played.
Burnett played in the 2nd game.
In the evening we dined with him at his camp. He is shooting in the Nullahs about here.

On Sunday morning I had a stroll around before breakfast before the sun came over the hills.
The people were busy harvesting, the women reaping, children gleaning, and the men, and the men carrying the sheaves to the threshing floors, where it is stacked.
After breakfast, we had a short service, and by this time a good many people were hanging about waiting to see the doctor, so they were all collected into our kitchen next door, 50 or 60 of them, and were all seated round on the floor. Neve then sat down and gave them a little address in Hindustani, which was translated into Balti by Gustaveson’s servant, a very smart lad who declaimed with great spirit. Gustaveson then preached to them and sang a hymn, after which Neve began examining the patients, giving each man a written prescription. When all had been seen, the pills and medicine bottles were put out on a table in the window of this room, where Neve sat and gave out the medicines through the window as fast as the people presented their chits. Gustaveson stood by and poured out the mixture of Epson Salts and Senna, which was the favourite concoction, and his boy held a saucer of lotion, where with he rubbed the legs, arms and backs of those who required to be rubbed.
The 60 patients were thus speedily disposed of, and then Neve started the more important job of operations.
The whole business last till 6 o’clock, including half an hour for tiffin.
I took a photo of the crowd outside the bungalow, but most of them had their backs turned, being interested in an operation which Neve was at that moment performing.