The village was situated at the food of a precipitous hill, on top of which was a small monastery, and I went up to it by a steep path.
There was a small courtyard in front of the building. In the building, a chorten, in which were many little burnt clay objects shaped like a choten, in each of which is mixed ashes of some departed person , ie .I was pocketing one when the Lama came out. He made no objection to my pilfering. He took me into the building in which was a sort of chapel with images of departed saints with little alters in front of them, with little brass bowls of water or corn on them. He showed me his library, the books being written on long single sheets. There was a sheet lying on the floor, which I picked up and asked if I might have, to which he smilingly signified his assent.
In a niche in the wall outside the door were two or three prayer wheels of the shape and size of side drums, which he gave a knock round as he passed.
Just beyond the village was a high figure of a deity, carved on a rock. About it a lot of prayer flags on poles. (I came through here 2 years later with Dr A. Neve and Mr G.Millais).
Having seen what there was to be seen, I walked back to Lotsun.
Saturday 28th Sept.Turned out as soon as it was light, but a little delay in starting as only 2 coolies turned up at first.
Set out west for Kargil. The road and valley much the same as yesterday to Mulbekh. Met a good many caravans of ponies carrying loads of merchandise for Leh. Also met an empty dandy and ponies with the baggage of Mrs Hebes and Miss Kaut, Moravian missionaries, going to Leh. Passed an old Ladakhi fort on the top of a high rock, defending this Wakhta Nullah which, beyond the fort, widens out. Villages now on both sides of the river, green fields, yellow poplars and willows, grey stone retaining walls, white, flat-roofed houses, and small square temples with verandahs.
Having crossed the river, I ascended several hundred feet onto a wide, stony plateau lying between the Makhta and Suru river, which it joins at Kargil.
Looking up the Suru Valley, I could see rocky mountains rising 4 or 5 thousand feet high on each side, and way up the valley, the sight of snows.
Descended from the plateau to the Suru which was crossed by a bridge - with a parapet.
In Kargil was a post office and telegraph poles and Kashmiri pundits about - signs of returning to more civilised parts. At the Dák bungalow found Gustaveson and Neve, doctoring. Their quarters were in a dinghy little hole of a place, but sporting two chairs.
I got here about 10 o’clock, ready for breakfast after my 13-mile rather warm march.
An hour later we left Kargil with 4 ponies and 4 coolies.
The women here beautify themselves by sticking little white seeds on their faces.
Marches about 2 miles down the Suru and then turned sharp left up the valley of the Dras River (One would follow down the Suru for the Indus Valley and Scardu).
The Dras river was of a beautifully blue colour where deep, and beautifully clean when flowing over variously coloured stones.
Crossed a pari or two. Passed a village on the other side of the river to which water was brought by a little canal cut for several miles high up on the mountain side.
Arrived at Chunagund and put up in the serai. Entered a small door into a courtyard about 50 yards long and 10 wide. On three sides were a lot of small rooms on a low terrace. The rooms were little, dark, smoke-begrimed rooms with no windows. Neve and Gustaveson occupied a room. I preferred the courtyard which by evening was well occupied by pack animals.
The Chawkidar (inn keeper) made a difficulty about supplying firewood. He said there was no village, and nothing to be had. Neve told him to get chicken and eggs etc and be quick about it. After further contesting, he went off. Gustaveson’d boy followed him up a nearby cliff, on top of which, invisible from below, was a small village, and soon came back with a sheep, chicken, eggs and firewood.
Two men came to Neve who had been operated on for cataracts 3 or 4 years ago at the mission hospital at Srinegar. One had spectacles, and Neve gave the other a pair.
Much disturbed by fleas during the night. Having no Keating, I powdered up some camphor and put it inside my pyjamas. It did not stupefy the fleas, but made them run about much more actively.
Sunday 29th. Turned out at 5.45. Continued up the Dras River. Very confined valley. Bare rocks rising out of the river both sides. View of high mountains ahead. At six miles, came to the junction with the Shingo River, (draining the Deosai Plains). Bore left along the Dras River, over a pari and came down to Karbu. Had breakfast in a grove of trees, a comforting shelter after a hot and thirsty march. A fine range of black, rocky, precipitous hills arose above Karbu, with a higher range of snow-capped mountains behind them. Five miles on, reached Tashgam, where is a small village, and again we lodged in the serai - a large rambling place with a courtyard. Not so dirty as the last, but well crowded up with natives and animals, and much smoke from fires. We slept in a verandah which rounded the courtyard. Neve and G. went to the village and brought back 3 patients. I had a bathe in the river, mended my chapplis - a frequent occupation. Fine moonlit night. Some fine peaks lying back up a side nullah.
Monday 30th. Just enough sun to be pleasant. At the base of a snow-sprinkled range, the valley turned right. Here the village of Dundal with willow trees, where we stayed 2 hours. Today pleasanter sitting in the sun than in the shade. Started ½ an hour after the others. Further on, the valley widened out, leaving a plain well-watered by streams coming from nullahs on the north side, the river along throughout a gorge on the left (south) side. Here I caught up N & G and we had breakfast. Three miles on, crossed a saddle and looked down on the open plain of Dras, pleasantly green, and a refreshing sight after the arid mountains we had been passing through the last 4 days. There were a few hamlets dotted about, and ahead we could see the rest house, post office, and old white Sikh fort with tapering round towers. On the north were easy sloping ridged; on the south, precipitous rocky mountains, snowy peaks appearing beyond the head of the plain, 10 or 12 miles away. Passed 2 upright stones about 7 feet high, having old Buddhist carvings and inscriptions.
We took up our quarters in a large room with 3 windows in the rest house, a large serai near by. Here we found letters awaiting us. N& G went off to preach in a village. I had a bathe and wrote to Fanny. We dined off a table, which we made by placing a door across our beds. Got new milk and butter, but no vegetables. Had to block the doorways to keep out py dogs.
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