Twenty

Tuesday 17th. Did a little exploration before breakfast, and later washed some clothes in a stream. Before breakfast, about 10 o’clock, the Rajah came to call with a large following. Neve and the Rajah sat on the two kilters (leather-covered baskets) at the tent door. The rajah, dressed in yellow, had his hookah, and during the whole visit seemed very ennuie. He was curious about my camera. Gustaveson thought it a good opportunity to preach, and did so with the rajah’s assent.
The Rajah stayed till a present of two melons was brought (one bad one).
Patients arrived, and Neve and Gustaveson were busy the rest of the day. I made my way to the top of the great rock which butts out into the river 1400 feet above our camp, and got a fine view of the wonderful assembly of spire-like peaks across the valley to the north, at the head of the Hushe Nullah along the south side of the Baltoro Glacier. Had some difficulty in finding my way down and back to camp in the dark.

Wednesday 18th. After breakfast went with Neve to call on the Raja at his house under the cliffs at the corner of the nullah. Entered a gateway with a sort of stable yard, where were a number of fox terriers. A 3-storied house, built round a central courtyard. We went up some dinghy stairs and along dark passages to a room with 2 open sides, the casements of carved and pierced woodwork. A lovely view over Kapalu with its descending sweep of orchards, the Shyok winding its way through the sandy plain, and the wonderful spires of the Hushe Nullah.
The Rajah, Neve and I sat on the floor, on a carpet - a dozen men, with Sukah Ali with my camera - sitting round the room. A little boy in shabby European dress came in. We were regaled with sweet spiced tea and a flat sort of shortbread cakes. Neve gave the Rajah a New Testament in Persian, with which he seemed pleased. We got very stiff, sitting cross legged. Afterwards, I went up the nullah behind which leads to the pass to the Indus Valley. Took photos
After tiffin, Neve having finished his work, we went to the polo ground and watched the play.

Thursday 18th Sept. Turned out at 5.45 and started at 7, First straight up the stream behind our camp which, as not infrequently, also served as a road.
Reached the east side of the Kapalu moraine and ascended a small nullah about 1200 feet, coming out on a plateau stretching about 2 miles from the mountains on the right, and a mile to the left where it ends in a cliff down to the Shyok. A mile ahead, a great moraine bank came out of a nullah on the right, sweeping right round to our left. Snow was lying low on the mountains, and cloud obscured all the high peaks. The whole plateau was cultivated, the crops being ripe - a sight pleasant to behold..
Having crossed the great bank, we came into a sort of lake bed, half of which was small fields and the rest grassy meadow on which yaks were feeding.
We could here look down 200 feet onto the Shyok Plain and across to the lower slopes of the spurs of the great spires. Here and there green patches of villages with their fields and orchards.
Descended 2000 feet down a steep ravine to the Shyok. Came into an arena of willows and poplars, and passed a strong sulphur spring of cold water. Came to a pari (mountain spur butting onto the river) in which were many large holes, or little caves. In one large hole a number of children were sitting, and in another a lot of very small black goats, sheltering from the rain. Crossed a stream, which Gustaveson tried to jump, and fell in.
The Rajah’s Chaprassi - still with us - carried me and Neve over. Reached Sermo at 10.30, and sat by a stream in an orchard for breakfast, notices being given that the doctor would see sick people. The first time a European doctor has ever been through these parts, but the name of Neve was famous.
After breakfast, the population of the village having assembled - and they smelt pretty strong - preaching and dosing and a few operations were proceeded with. Left Sermo about 2 o’clock.
Rocky spurs from the right now butted right into the river, so we had to climb to cross them, going up and down several 100 feet. Between these “paris” were stretches of sand along the side of the river, the valley now about 1 mile wide.
Having passed the village of Lankha - at the mouth of a nullah - we had to cross a pari where the path for a mile or so was a good example of cliff work often met with in the Indus and other valley. Here and there were sort of stairs on scaffolding, and in some places the path was carried along a cliff face on a staging of transverse timber, supported at one end in holes made into the rock, or on projections or on built-up walls from lower ledges, and at the other, the outer end, on longitudinal timber supported by struts of various lengths resting on projections of rock below. The path itself consists of planks or flat stones, and was about 5 feet wide, to allow room for laden animals to get along.
The scenery here was fine. On both sides the precipitous rocks rising to a great height. The river, about 100 yards wide, with very swift current, and sometimes rushing into great waves over shallows. We camped this night at Dan, after an 18-mile march.